Etiquette #2 - Ruining The Perfect Toast

Many of you have probably attended one form or another of a social event or gathering in your lives and most likely have seen or heard someone giving a toast. Be it a wedding, christening, bar mitzvah or graduation ceremony, a toast represents the verbal affirmation of the importance of said event and as most of our social conduct, it is governed by some simple rules.

Rule #1 - Order

As with introducing people to each other, there is a set order based on seniority of importance and stepping over it is usually frowned upon. In the case of dinner parties or any other form of casual event the host is always the first to give the toast. If the host does not initiate a toast it is definitely not your duty to take initiative.

In the case of wedding receptions the duty for the first toast falls on the best man and being tipsy or drunk when giving it is bad manners. If you ever find yourself in the position of best man, save the drinks for after the speech.

Rule #2 - Initiation

One of my biggest pet peeves is people initiating a toast by tapping their glasses with one of their eating utensils. Not only is the sound annoying but the act itself is pointless and is considered very bad manners. Same goes for clearing one's throat to command attention.The proper way to initiate a toast is by standing up and holding your glass at arm's length. In smaller gatherings, this act should suffice to silence everybody, however if in the presence of a larger audience, it is acceptable to say: "May I have everyone's attention please" or "If you could all turn your attention for a moment". Don't begin speaking until everyone is looking at you and the room has quieted down. The toastee never stands up and if the toaster is further away he or she just "air clink" their glasses in sign of recognition at the end of a toast

Rule #3 - The Speech/Toast itself

Most toasts can be divided into three parts: the introduction, the oration, and the toast proper. Present in all toasts given to an audience where some might not know you, the introduction explains who you are and what your relationship to the toastee(s) is. The oration is the meat of the toast, which you will have written and learned in advance! The toast proper is the simple act of raising one's glass higher and while facing the entire group, uttering one of the  following "to X" (where X is a person's name or to a concept, e.g. "to peace," etc.) or "Cheers!" etc. 

Other Toasting Tips and Rules

Sometimes, when the toast is finished, it is proper for the recipient of the toast to stand, without drinking, and say a few words. 

If you are participating in a toast, make sure that your glass is at least 2/3 full for the toast. It is considered bad toast etiquette to toast with an empty glass. 

It is never a good idea to not participate in a toast. If you are present at the event, you should participate in any toasts given while there! 

While alcohol is the traditional drink used for toasts, any drink will do, including punch, sparkling fruit soda or even soft drinks. When a toast is over, it's never good manners to applaud. You are signifying your agreement with your actions at the toast.

Garment and Shoe Care #1 - GIVE Your TOMS Some TLC

Having recently become involved in the TOMS Campus Club program I've gotten even more familiar with this brand and the amazing work they do around the world. Even though I only own 2 pairs of TOMS I am a huge fan of them and after having gotten mine a little dirty, I started thinking of how I should go about to clean them. If you don't own any TOMS pairs of shoes, and I do recommend you visit TOMS.com and check them out, don't worry, this post can apply to mostly any canvas shoes or espadrilles.

So TOMS get a little stinky from the leather inside and sometimes they absorb some dirt and dust, but this should turn you away from buying a pair because it's really easy to get your TOMS back into tip-top shape. Most people go about hand-washing their TOMS, but I think that's necessary because they are pretty sturdy and unless your washing machine's cycle speed can;t be controlled, I don't see any reason to encumber yourself with hand washing them.

1. Wash your TOMS by themselves on your washing machine's most gentle cycle. Add laundry detergent only ( NO bleach) and wash

2. Either let your TOMS dry out in the sun (discolorations might appear) or dry them on LOW or NO heat along with a couple of WET towels and a dryer sheet. If you have a dryer rack, dry them on there.

Your TOMS might feel shrunk or the leather inside may have curled up a bit when you get them out of the dryer. It's normal so don't worry! Just wear them for like 10 minutes and they're back to normal, dear!

Post #100 - An Ebullient Duke Summer's Day

Browsing some of Duke University's vintage photo albums on Flicker proved incredibly rewarding when I stumbled upon this little gem of a picture. Taken in 1986 by then Duke student Mark Estrada , this B&W photo manages to encapsulate the things that make me love Duke as much as I do: the incredible architecture that gives the campus an aged and mysterious feel, the great weather of the south and the desire for learning and bettering one's self that I see in so many fellow "Dukies". If you never thought you could get a tan and catch up on your reading, all the while being part of an amazing campus, this here picture will prove you wrong. I have been saving it for a special occasion and I couldn't think of one that would be more fitting than celebrating the 100th post on this blog.

To Duke and to many many more posts to come; I thank y'all so much for reading and following!

Fashion Forward #9 - To Summer Is A Verb

I borrowed this logo from the awesome blog Summer Is A Verb

Indeed, 'to summer" can be used as a verb and nowadays many a people frown when it comes up   in conversation. While it is indeed tightly bound to the Prep world, a degree of snobbishness and the whole summering in Nantucket habit, I like to use it just for, as one of my dear friends likes to say, "shits and giggles" to gauge my friends' level of abhorrence to the expression.

A gorgeous family on a beach on Nantucket

To come back to the idea that brought this famous Preppy Handbook mème into my mind, August, the month I consider to be the pinnacle of all summer gaiety and debauchery, is upon us and I realized I did not talk about summer accouterments at all.

Grown up in Europe, my image of swimwear was, how can I put it, dimensionally curtailed?! Though not as huge a fan of Speedos as was in my childhood, my opinion on size when it comes to any kind of shorts stands. The beaches of America are sadly laden with over-sized, monochromatically afflicted swim-tents. Even GQ saw the problem rising and decided to say something in one of their 2009 summer issues.

GQ featured a couple of guys that had some size problems with their swim trunks in June of 2009. What the sad part is is that so many guys with great bodies choose to hide them in these over-sized ugly board shorts, instead of showing off their hard work in the gym to the rest of the beach. If you've got it flaunt it is almost appropriate in this case.

Though it is a tad late on the summer timeline, here are a few swim trunks that veer away from the all too familiar and sometimes boring solid swim trunk. Summer is about being spontaneous and ebullient, so why not show your inner happiness through what you wear on the beach!

1. Ralph Lauren Molokai 6" Floral Trunk - Jacobian Floral - $59.99; 2. Parke and Ronen - Chilmark Bikini - $90; 3. Ralph Lauren Molokai 6" Floral Trunk - Blue Paisley - $59.99; 4. Lilly Pulitzer - Capri Trunk - Daquiri Pink - $90; 5. Parke and Ronen - SSI Sunset Ivy 4" Swim Short - $95; 6. Parke and Ronen - NDM Navy Del Mar 4" Swim Short - $95

I really hope all of your summers have been nothing short of amazing and I am looking forward to transitioning with you all into Fall, my favourite season!

How It's Made #5 - Cowboy Boots

Even James Dean, an all-time fashion icon wore them!

Even though cowboy boots have never and will never be my thing, it is interesting to see the amount of work it takes to fashion them. If you're a fan and would like to read more on Cowboy boots, check out Bootblog AllenBoots.

Flash

Fashion Forward #8 - I'm Seeing Double Vs

Clothing Brigade is a new online store I've grown very fond of. With a motto that spurs its buyers to "Shop Independent(ly)", the exquisite collection of items found in their online racks is sure to please you. While I am most excited about their jeans and accessories collection, I would like to present you with a reinvention of the ubiquitous V-neck Tee. Most fashions events that I attend see me bemoaning the lack of originality and innovation in men's lines, which, despite the inherent lack of options that comes with designing Men's clothing, is not an excuse for unbridled rehashing of the same boring shapes and forms.

Wrath Arcane - Double V Tee
  $49

I like how they not only added a second skin to the simple V-neck Tee but also spiced it up with a little bit of asymmetry

The Last Bastions of Prep: Deerfield Academy

Deerfield Academy, is one of the top Prep Schools in the United States, right there next to Phillips Andover Academy, Phillips Exeter Academy, Choate Rosemary Hill. Deerfield Academy, founded in 1797, is an independent, co-educational boarding school located in Western Massachusetts, know for its rigorous academic programs, athletic prowess, and the beauty, drama, and rhythm of campus life.

I have always been a fan of school uniforms as I feel they instill feelings of belonging to a community and school pride. While as far as I can tell, Deerfield Academy does not have a uniform per se, the dress code mentioned by some of the students in the video makes for a more homogeneous look. The Prep look, which is indigenous to, well, Prep Schools is a non provocative, put together appearance. The Prep does not wear Abercrombie or Hollister, which I am always  amazed to hear some people call preppy! The Prep boy or girl wears Lilly Pulitzer, Ralph Lauren, Vineyard Vines, Lacoste, and other similar brands. They like prints such as Seersucker, Plaid, Argyle, and Madras and most often do not shy away from wearing what most people call go-to-hell colours. 

I Invite you to watch the following video and notice some of the Prep elements of clothing, which are as close to the source of Prep as they can be. We can even notice the Jacket, Shirt, Tie and Shorts look that has been creeping up on the different runways of the world. 

Thanks to The Over-Cher for the video link

The Big Pony Effusion

Ralph Lauren, founding father of the Americana style has released a new line of Ralph Lauren fragrances which focus on the individuality of the Big Pony motif, one of the latest Ralph Lauren hits in Menswear.

The fragrance quartet comes in differently coloured bottles, each numbered with a different Polo-inspired decal. The full Big Pony Collection comprises 40ml, 75ml and 125ml edt (Eau de toilette) sprays and the  online price is $50 for the 75ml bottle. A four x 15ml coffret will also be available.

#1 RL Blue - the Sporty one -  is a fresh marine scent with notes of grapefruit and lime.

#2 RL Red  - the Seductive one - is a gourmand blend of dark chocolate and musk.

#3 RL Green - the Adventurous one - is a fresh green scent, featuring hints of mint and ginger.

#4 RL Orange - the Stylish one - is an oriental-woody fragrance with notes of mandarin and kyarawood.

My favourite part of the whole Big Pony campaign is their video advertisement.  Bruce Weber, an amazing photographer, has been able to capture the carefree sybarite lifestyle that is embedded into the American noosphere as being the Ralph Lauren/Rugby RL way-of-life. These videos has always appealed to me, and this latest one is no exception.

What's even better, is that as part of their campaign, Ralph Lauren has made it that customers are able to combine a lot of short video clips and make their very own Big Pony video.

Fashion Forward #7 - Brace Yourselves

Suspenders (Am. English) or how they're most commonly referred to, Braces (B. English), have been popping in and out of style for the past century. While originally designed so that the higher-cut trousers of that time wouldn't fall off, suspenders have become more or less useless in the age of low-cut pants and belts. Nonetheless, suspenders have nowadays made their way into mainstream fashion as more of a fashion statement rather than a practical accoutrement. Though they are considered underwear by the most purist of dandies and fashionistos, suspenders have broken out of their "always covered" shell and are now worn in full view, having become a part of different cultural scenes.

Browsing  TOPMAN.com , I happened to come across this Off White Vintage Tip Braces, which although not traditional due to their clip on rather than leather tab mode of attachment, I still find quite appealing.

Off White Vintage Tip Braces, $30

If you do fancy wearing suspenders or braces, whichever your favourite word for the might be, remember that wearing both suspenders or a belt is considered a faux pas!

The Road Goes Ever On and On

Hair and Grooming #5 - The Golden Ratio of Fragrance

Perfume and cologne can enhance one's overall appearance. The alluring scent that is complimentary to a person  increases attractiveness, however, when perfume is applied wrong, the overpowering effects can actually have an opposite effect. Through a little perfumeducation and some trial and error you can discover what your personal Golden Ratio of fragrance is.

The first step in learning how to make perfume work (guys, if you still think perfume is for girls and cologne is for men, please read my previous post on fragrances), is by selecting a scent that's right for you. While a certain fragrance can smell just great on a testing strip in the perfume shop, it can behave quite differently on your skin, once it combines with your natural scent and skin oils. Because of this, the only way to be certain a perfume is compatible with you, is to apply one or at most two perfumes, each on a different wrist, and then take a walk outside the shop for at least 30 minutes. By this time the perfume has had time to start evaporating and allow you to perceive the actual smell it emanates from your skin. If you are still pleased with it then you should definitely purchase it.

The second and most important step is the all time cliché, "location, location, location". I have seen plenty of guys getting ready to go out, only to watch them in horror as they sprayed perfume all over their clothes and sometimes even under their armpits.

Spending time taking care of my clothes has made me aware of the effects all our grooming products have on them and the alcohol in perfumes is one of the most harmful of all. Perfumes are mostly always a mixture of different organic molecules that are designed to evaporate at different times, however from skin, not clothing fibers. Without direct contact with warm skin, the alcohol evaporates before all the essential oils have had time to, possibly leaving you with a stained garment.

Now that you know better than to apply fragrances to your clothes it's time you learned about pulse points or the points on your skin where blood flows closest to the surface and are the warmest. Applying perfume to pulse points insures optimum delivery of the scent.

The 6 Male Pulse Points

The 6 Pulse Points are: 1. the temples; 2. behind the ears; 3. clavicles for men and the cleavage for women ; 4. elbow pit; 5. the insides of your wrists; 6. the insides of your knees.

While it is definitely not advised to apply perfume to all 6 pulse points at once, depending on what you are wearing, as well as the weather conditions, here are some patterns I would use:

a) Warm/Hot weather, shorts and a tee: 3,4 and 6

b) Warm/Hot weather, night out, freshly shaved: 1,2 and short sleeve: 4/long sleeve: 5

c) Cold weather, casual: 2 and 5

d) Cold weather, formal: 1, 2, 3, 5 (Remember, perfumes effuse slower in colder weather so don't be afraid to add a bit more than in the summer )

Knowing the essential pulse points will insure you won't stain your clothes anymore and that you'll make good use of your perfume.

Tips


1. It is also important to remember that we are all prone to olfactory fatigue, which means that after being exposed for a prolonged period of time to a certain smell, our nose becomes temporarily desensitized to it. IF you are at any time uncertain of whether or not you are applying enough perfume ask some close friends for advice.

2. In the summer time, hot weather and sweat contribute to an accelerated loss of perfume and if you're planning to be out longer your nice fragrance will start to become unnoticeable. What you may have seen some women do is carry around a small pen-shaped perfume applicator which they use to reapply perfume when out. Here are two such applicators you can use to carry some perfume around if you want to freshen up, as well as a mini funnel if you need to transfer perfume more easily (if your perfume bottle does not open, your only option is to spray and spray into a closed chilled container and wait for the perfume to condensate on the walls after which you can pour it into the smaller bottles)

Photographic Spotlight #2 - Rinze van Brug

Rinze van Brug began his love of art at a young age. With inspiration from movies such as BEAT STREET and WILD STYLE Rinze's artistic approach blossomed. Drawing and then graffiti were the first methods of expression for Rinze and he worked commercially while in Amsterdam creating art murals for stores and restaurants while continuing his personal art as well. At 19, Rinze purchased his first Macintosh computer and began exploring new programs such as Painter, which allows users to develop their own art work in a much shorter time span. Learning these computer programs escalated the extent of artwork Rinze could achieve. Able to finish projects in one hour that would have taken weeks, Rinze was able to explore new genres of art.

During art school Rinze excelled in graphic design and photography graduating to enter the advertising world. At Ogilvy he worked with clients such as Philips, Canon, Mercedes, Red Bull, and many other Fortune 500 companies as an art director. To work through his ideas with clients he would sketch out pictures of how he wanted the photography to look and, in doing so, realized his calling was photography and design.

Much of Rinze's inspiration comes from music that helps him to continuously mold his personal style. With new music consistently hitting the scene Rinze utilizes the fusion of music, life and art in his photography. Rinze has worked with high end fashion companies and at Fashion Week, as well as portfolio work and editorial, to documentary and integrated art styles. Each photograph shows Rinze's ability to capture the moment, the pose, or the scene as he brings each photograph to life.

Channeling the 90s

The 90s preppies had it going right....everyone else sadly did not!

E pur si muove

Etiquette #1 - Emily Post

Proper etiquette and behaviour is what has kept our society from disintegrating into chaos. While most people learn the basics growing up, it takes a little more effort to acquire mastery of the more delicate issues. I have created this series of posts to be able to share with you the etiquette points I think are most important and applicable to our generation and what better way to start the series than a vintage video of Emily Post herself:

With this occasion, I would also like to point you to the new Etipedia on EmilyPost.com, one of the most comprehensive online resources when it comes to manners and proper etiquette.

Celebrity Style #2 - Zachary Quinto

When it comes to the 31-year-old Pittsburgh native, less is always more. As the skull-splitting Sylar on Heroes, Quinto induces terror with a single stare and on the red carpet he sports narrow suits and skinny ties. I would go as far as saying that Zachary Quinto brought the hyper-virilized look back. His stuffy yet manicured eyebrows and sexy stubble prove that you don't have to give up your perceived masculinity in order to look great!

Describe your look growing up.

I was basically sporting a Spock do back then -- it looked like I had a bowl haircut. I remember wearing braided belts, khaki pants and suede bucks. Very J. Crew. I went to a private Catholic school and wore a tie every day. I like to think my taste is more refined now.

What's your style today?

It's pretty laid-back but metropolitan. I always try to do something a little different, while being straightforward and definitive. I wore a navy blue Jil Sander tux with black lapels to the Golden Globes. And I like Alexander McQueen, who brings a sense of adventure to clothes. It's understated but tangible.

Did you ever have any fashion obsessions?

I used to love Miami Vice. I went through a serious phase where I walked around dressed like Don Johnson: linen pants with an oversize blazer and no shirt. But I was, like, 10.

Zachary Quinto and fellow Star Trek hottie Chris Pine in a candid photo-shoot

What's the biggest splurge you've made?

I don't splurge. I guess buying a house would qualify. But my lifestyle remains the same now as it was a few years ago -- in terms of where I go, what I do, who I do it with. I still buy clothes in the same places. I love to travel, so after the first season of Heroes I spent a month in Europe. But I was traveling on trains, carrying my backpack.

You seem to know who you are -- what's something you'd never wear?

I can't stand pleated pants. They're not sleek or streamlined. I like order and simplicity. Pleats are, like, why?

Do you have a favorite scent?

I use China Musk oil. And I've worn patchouli since high school. I know it smells like dirty hippies. But it's like cilantro -- either you love it or you don't.

                                                                                                             MSN Lifestyle Interview

Fun fact: Zachary is the only person in history to appear on the cover of Entertainment Weekly two weeks in a row!

No feature about Zachary Quinto could be complete without this hot clip from So NoTORIous.

Fashion Forward #6 - Pay What It's Worth ?!

Pay What It's Worth is the only store of its kind in the world that I know of. While other retailers use Outlet Malls and Factory Stores to make use of surplus items or garments which do not pass quality control, Malcom Frontier uses this website to give the customer unparalleled choice with regards to cost. Any amount the customer wishes to pay will get them the item! 

Quoting the website itself:

How much you pay is totally up to you. Before you decide you should consider the defect or reason the bag is being offered here. Then consider how much use and enjoyment you’ll get out of your bag. Keep in mind that, despite some small issues, these are still high quality Malcolm Fontier bags designed to be the perfect sidekick to your modern on-the-go lifestyle. Maybe you’ll decide on $50, maybe $75, or $100; any amount will get you the bag.

NOTE: certain measly amounts may come with an unexpected and long lasting feeling of “I’m a cheap bastard” guilt.

Products offered by PWIW

I highly recommend you take at a look at the products offered on PWIW as you will find the defects are mostly always negligible or the items were just produced in surplus quantities. I am quite positive you won't ever find a $1 bag anywhere else!

How It's Made #4 - Esquivel Shoes

The more time I spend in the USA the more I am impressed with the quality and craftsmanship of locally-made items, despite being quite biased due to my European upbringing. I talked about the Alden shoe factory a while back and now I want you to introduce you to a west-coast, California-based Luxury Shoe Manufacturer: Esquivel.

Even though Esquivel markets these marvelously finished pairs as Women's shoes,  there's nothing that I see that would make them unwearable by men. 

The following video is a slideshow of stills taken during the making of Esquivel shoes:

The Esquivel website does not feature an online store, however Esquivel shoes and boots can be purchased at Endless.com

There's just something I love about green leather