LOVE = LOVE

Every year around this time we are assaulted by a global display of affection that most Western nations dub Valentine's Day. But in all its lovey-dovey intentions, the simple exclusion of non-heterosexual relationships from mainstream portrayal of what this day is supposed to represent makes it even more harmful than amorous or educational. Even now, when we are the vanguards of vicissitude in terms of acceptance of all types of  relationships between two humans, even relationships that do not abide to the "norm" set forward by a heteronormative world, so little is done to equilibrate the balance between LOVE and what this said "norm" sees as  LoVe. For that reason I would like to commend the Valentine's Day Commercial campaign of Armani Exchange that does what so many of us have not been able to say through words in as little as three pictures.

So tomorrow...when you wake up next to the love of your life or begin the search for your happily ever after, keep in mind and remember that

  LOVE = LOVE

and it transcends one's sex, gender, sexual orientation, nationality, race, colour, language, religion, social status, age, ability and political affiliation. Love and let live!!!

M(c) H(ammer), a palindrome for H&M?!

For anybody who has lived through the 90s, MC Hammer's videoclip "U Can't Touch This" is probably deeply ingrained in their cerebrum and if not for the music itself, for the pants worn by the rapper and his dancers.

Lately, mainly 2007 and onwards, a resurgence of the same style of pants has been slowly brewing, gaining more fans by the season and going from the extreme of nouveau fashion to the runways of Paris and NYC and now is about to enter mainstream consumer markets through H&M's 2010 Spring/Summer collection.

Before going into peering at the future I'd like to peek at the past and examine the origins of this style of pants, which is more of a category of pants rather than one and  single type of pant. Through the ages it has bore many names, some being as intriguing and mysterious-sounding as Sarouel, Jodhpur, Zouave, Lungi and Dhoti and as mundane as super-wide leg, sailor, pajama pants and as one of my favourite Fasionistos, TheFashionGent, dubbed them, "sagging crotches".

1. The Sarouel


The origin of the name of this specific sub-type of pants comes from the French noun Sarouel, which refers to a large type of pant fabric that is worn around the Sahara region:

sarouel (n.m.)

1.large pantalon de toile porté dans le Sahara.

While this is what I would imagine the Prince of Persia(and by this I mean of course Jake Gyllenhaal) wearing, I can say that a bit of googling has made this type of pant appealing and I am very likely going to buy one or more pairs in the near future. Here's a few of my favourite choices:

• Wool Sarouel Pants by DeepStyle ( $82 )

Another great item found on Yesstyle , this pair of Sarouels, hailing from South Korea, comes in two non-colours, gray and black and tapers off at the ankle as it is meant to be tucked into one's boot (remember the origin of the Sarouels and that sand against skin is bad)

• Sarouel Jeans by Yellow Jacket ( $55 - blue - black )

This great style has even penetrated the Jeans Market and as one website sartorially observes, even though some are indeed seeing this new pant as a fad that will pass, I believe it is here to stay. Think of what a lot of fashion critics had said about men's skinny jeans, that they would not stick with today's man, while lo and behold skinny jeans are bigger than ever. Viva la revolucion stilistica!

• Vintage Sarouel Pants by EPISODE

There's nothing better than seeing an actual person wear an item and observing how this item integrates with who the person is. Wilfried, photographed on EasyFashion is the perfect example of a stylish guy who is not afraid of being a road-opener and in this picture is wearing a pair of vintage Sarouel Pants.

2. The Jodhpur

The Jodhpur is the most conservative of all drop-crotch pants and has been mainly designed to facilitate horse-back riding and hunting. Originally Jodhpurs were worn in the Indian city of Jodhpur and were tight-fitting only from the knee to the ankle, flaring above the knee. Modern fabrics have allowed Jodhpurs, which have traditionally been only white or cream to be available in most colours while stretch-fabrics have added more support and flexibility. The Jodhpur on the right is made out of leather and comes from designer Marie Streichenberger, designed for Holland&Holland.

3. The Dhoti
The Dhoti is the traditional male garment in the Indian subcontinent and what comes to transpire as dhoti pants in the western world are pants in a drop-crotch style that incorporate influences from traditional dhoti pants.

4. The Zouave


The Zouave gets its name from a certain group from within the French army, the Zouaves, a corps first rasised in Algeria in 1831 consisting entirely of two battalions of Berbers.

Cloak, Spring/Summer '07

5. The Harem 
Last but not least, the Harem pants originate obviously from the Harems of the olden Muslim Empires and are basically baggy/drop-crotch pants, tapered at the ankle and that have side-flaps on the hip that button at the waist area.

Here are some Harem pants in action on the runways of the world; John Galliano on the left, combining two of the 2010 Spring/Summer trends, the Harem pant and the Gladiator Sandals and Bottega Veneta on the right also combining two of the trends, the colour red and the Harem.

Enjoy some Hammer time....uh, I meant Harem time  !

“An orange on the table, your dress on the rug, and you in my bed, sweet present of the present, cool of night, warmth of my life.”...

It's never too early to think about summer and I believe that Jacques Prevert's word choice of the fruit and colour was most likely not a random one. Orange is one of my favourite colours for the sunny season and is the colour of intellectual ambition and stubbornness, situating itself chromatically exactly halfway between red and yellow. Funnily the word orange was not introduced to the English speaking world until the 1500 and is one of the few words of the English language that does not have a rhyming counterpart.

Orange is a very versatile colour and much to the chagrin of many men, if worn in a nuance other than Safety Orange ( See Coach Bruce Pearl) and properly matched, orange can turn a look from good to great. Some orange nuances that are not very much present in mainstream fashion and I find specifically appealing are the earthier tones (Persian Orange, Fulvous,  Tenné, Mahogany, Rust, and Flame) on one side and the fiery tones (Amber, Champagne, Pumpkin, Coquelicot, Gamboge, Persimmon, Tangerine and Vermilion ) on the other side. Now Orange is in itself a very powerful and overpowering colour and unless you wear a very light nuance of it, I would advise against matching it with another powerful colour such as bright green or yellow for fear of resembling a traffic light more than a human.

Orange goes best with itself, black and white of course and with its complementary colour, a light blue such as azure or with colours from the same chromatic family(Triads) such as light yellow, some pinks, beige, some light green nuances (i.e. khaki green) and brown.

I've put together a collage of my favourite orange pieces in hope that it will inspire you to wear more orange this spring and summer(Observe Paco Rabanne's 1 Million perfume which has become my all time favourite fragrance).. Enjoy and click the picture for a higher resolution version !

Sweating over Sweater Stones

Having just talked about sweaters in the previous post I felt like this would be the right time to mention this great product I have discovered and have been using for a while. First though let me ask how how many of you have spent too much time using those annoying pilling shavers trying to get rid of the annoying fuzz that appears on sweaters, predominantly on the backside?! How many of you have accidentally snagged parts of the sweater that weren't supposed to come off yet?! The product that I want to let you know about is better than any of the electric shavers you can buy from different department stores and has the great advantage of being FREE.

I took the liberty of copying the following from the Sweater Stone's website:

1. What is a sweater stone?

Sweater Stone is lightweights pumice, composed of thousands of minute completely sealed cells.

2. How does the Sweater Stone work?

Sweater Stone has the unique ability to remove pilling from knits with each sharp edge of a broken cell. It actually cuts the filaments that holds the pill to the garment.

Get a Sweater Stone and protect your sweaters from harm!

Cowl Necks and Shawl Necks and Roll Necks! Oh My!

Just what our dearest friend Dorothy felt when going into the forest was approximately what I felt when I stumbled upon YesStyle which describes itself as being "the leading online retailer of Asian fashion products and exclusive lifestyle products from South Korea, Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan, and China. A good alternative to the anti-gay Urban Outfitters."


What I had been looking for years had finally materialized itself in this online shop. Besides buying shoes, my second hobby/mania is buying interesting and unique sweaters. Sadly, the American market is very much lacking in originality and diversity. Short of buying expensive off-the-runway looks, my only sources for such enjoyment have been Urban Outfitters ( things might change now that I am aware of Urban Outfitter's founder's agenda Boo Richard Hayne!) and Rugby Ralph Lauren.



After spending a couple of hours on YesStyle my Wishlist has grown considerably and I am very excited about showing some of the items I like most to you. The only disadvantage to consider, as a Western Consumer is that most of the items on YesStyle come in One Size or if you're lucky in an M or an L, which I have come to realize are actually S and M. But don't be discouraged, most of the fabrics stretch a bit and buying something that feels a little tight can provide the incentive that you need to work just a little harder at the gym. YesStyle offers Free Shipping on most any items and you can always return an item you don't find to your pleasing.

1. Cowl Neck Long Sleeved Sweater by Newyorkhomme($45)

I especially like the Cowl neck that is made out of two intertwining pieces and the tone-on-tone contrast between the body of the sweater and the cowl neck.


2. Turtleneck Cape with Fingerless Mittens by Peeps ($75)

I like the concept of deconstructing the normal sweater into the body and its sleeves very much. If the weather permits it one could wear a t-shirt and the cape without the sleeves or only with one of the mitten sleeves for extra panache.


3. Hooded Knit Pullover by Deepstyle ($70)

What I like best and look for in a sweater is its ability to make you feel safe and comfortable by means of its warmth and texture. I think this pullover and its rich cowl ,which can be used as a hoodie as well, would make anyone feel all cocooned and shielded from the inclement weather.



4. Dolman Sleeve Oversized Cardigan by Deepstyle ($88)

Attending an American college I often see students walking around in their fleece pants, hoodies and pajamas to class, to the library or to get food. Now I don't want to come off as being over judgemental because I can understand where they are coming from since we all like to feel comfortable whilst we go about our daily activities. For most college students however, this desire trumps over any semblance or care of style as the herd effect takes over being further reinforced by seeing other students doing the same. The following item is what I would personally turn to during those gloomy days when you feel like staying in bed and cuddling with your warm fleece blanket. The loose structure of the cardigan and the purposefully left short sleeves allow for one to maintain their personal bubble and feel comfortable while at the same time looking chic and put together. Paired right this cardigan makes for a great Fall/Spring item.


5. Handkerchief Hem-Hooded Coat by Deepstyle ($98)

PROPORTIONS!...Proportions....proportions? It seems that western designers enjoy being so rigid in their designs or otherwise I cannot explain why there is basically no breath of fresh air as the seasons go by. Yes they change the materials, yes they all change the colours, but in terms of construction and proportions, give or take small changes in tightness, all designers stick to some form of unwritten standard. I can understand the fear of being ridiculed by the ruthless fashion critics but sometimes, if you really believe in your ideas, that first step outside of the box can make it and not break it. That's why I want to applaud the Asian designers for not really caring of what the west has to say and designing what looks good, whatever form it might take. This Handkerchief Coat looks good both untied and tied and the inverted front-tail motif can definitely advantage either a taller person or someone with a less slender physique.



6. Knit Pullover with Sash by Deepstyle ($45)

This last piece is for the ones of you who like to stand out and be inovative through what you wear. One thing I always bemoan with regards to male fashion is the reality of how little we can actually do and change about what we wear compared to the near infinity of possibilities a woman can choose from. The Pullover with Sash does so much into establishing new ground through so little that I knew I had to tell you about it the moment I saw it.




So designers....take a risk, explore that niche in your head that want to come out and let the inspiration and change flow...you'll definitely not be disappointed!

Gushing Gurgling Galoshes

With snow still faling in many parts of the northern hemisphere and spring rain soon to follow, my thoughts go directly to what shoes can I wear that will both cope with the inclement weather and survive the slush mush that is snow or the gurgles of rain while still preserving an ounce of style.

While looking into this issue, the first solution I found, though practical, and versatile, was not very pleasing to the eyes and was not even that affordable:



1. J&G Rain Bootie Shoe Cover
This specific Rain Bootie is clunky and seems more fit for a ski trip rather than a walk to the office. I give it an F because I hate both velcro and nylon by themselves, moreover in combination as is the case with this shoe cover.

If for some obscure reason any of you would be interested in purchasing it and therefore going against my dire wishes you can find it here.

2. Totes Rubber Footwear

The second item I stubmled upon held much more promise as it was not a shoe cover but a Galosh (et. Fr. galoche - clog) which by definition is "a waterproof overshoe that protects shoes from water or snow". The Totes galoshes get a B for being very affordable (under $20) and versatile ( they offer men and women galoshes and they are the only company that offers a galosh for bigger work boots, working wonders for all you Timberland fans out there). The reason why I did not give the Totes galosh an A was that I found their lack of available colours disappointing and that they did not do anything to vary their designs.
Nonetheless, for someone who is practical and needs a good solution for rainy weather, Totes galoshes can be purchased here.

3. SWIMS Galoshes

Recently featured in GQ, the SWIMS galoshes are my absolute favourites. They come in different sizes, different colours, different styles and are deisgned with a style-savy consumer in mind (yes, women too :) ). They get an A+ for everything I mentioned above and for delivering not only to the U.S. but to Europe, Asia and the rest of the world as well. The + is for not forgetting, as most American retailers do, that there are just as many consumers, if not more, outside of the U.S.A. rather than inside.



The SWIMS website can be found here, while their online shop can be accesed here or you can purchase them from Saks Fifth Avenue in NYC, San Francisco, Chicago or Philadelphia. Enjoy the galoshes and the other items SWIMS are starting to sell, like these very cute cute slippers for men.


Caring for your shoes during Fall, Winter and Spring

Water is leather's worst enemy and unless your wearing pure cotton shoes most any other materials will suffer from water exposure. Here's a few tips that could save you money and your shoes their life.

Holiday Warm-fuzzyness

Hi everyone,

I know I haven't posted in a while but my laptop has taken a break and coupled with finals season my time has been stretched thin.

Today has been a great day and I have had a lot of warm fuzzyness come my way thanks to two websites I love very very much.

The first one is Givesmehope.com which in a format that is very similar to FML brings out quite the opposite, those little things that give people hope and inspire us all.

The second one is a personal favourite and source of strength and inspiration in less pleasant times. What was once just an idea of Blue Devils United, Duke's Student LGBTQQA group, has materialized itself in BlueDevilsUnited.com a thriving blog about what it is like being LGBTQ at a big American University.

I hope you enjoy reading them as much as I am and if you do like them please comment below. I often wonder if anybody actually reads this blog!

Thank you and Happy Holidays to all!!!

RFW:)

Fall brings Winter, all rejoice!

"Frosty is the morning;
But the sun is bright,
Flooding all the landscape
With its golden light."

Yes, ladies and gentlemen it is now officially fall on my beloved campus and while putting away the colours of summer and the memories of the Aegean Coast is a little hard, Fall is still my favourite season. It is time to whip out the ingredients needed for proper layering, put away the boat shoes and replace them with some nice sneakers and a good pair of leather or suede boots. While Autumn here in North Carolina is not by far as cold as the Autumns of my European childhood, I still relish the crisp morning air as I walk to class, thinking of all the colours that are soon to flood Duke's campus.

With the coming of Fall a change of colour is also needed on top of a change of items worn. Some popular fall colors this year are softer and darker shades of green, blue, grey and purple with a splash of golden, ochre and olive green for blending in with the chromatic explosion of the equinox.

A common faux pas with the advent of Fall is eliminating colour altogether once the first raindrop falls. While Fall does indeed require a rethinking of one's palette in terms of tone and hue, it certainly does not imply an all-out purge of all that binds us to Spring and Summer.

Contrary to the antiquated rule of not wearing white after Labor Day, the more daring sybarite is more than welcome to add a little contrast to his wardrobe although one should expect harsh critique from the more nescient of friends (Check this nice little article about wearing white after Labor Day and how this slightly ridiculous idea came into being)

For anyone living in colder areas of the United States, bringing out the cable sweaters, chunky cardigans and cashmere scarves is definitely acceptable and gives room for endless combinatorial possibilities. If there ever was a time of year when men should attempt to rival their female companions in terms of style and panache, Fall and Winter are definitely it.

As I always try to bring forth items and people that transcend mere utility and beaute, looking through some Ford Models portfolios these past few days I found one male model that somehow captures the essence that every beginning of Fall imbues in me and who was the inspiration for this post

Please enjoy and have a Happy Fall!

It’s not easy being Green!

And for most, it certainly isn’t easy to pull it off either. There’s the issue of the different shades of green, which range from puking pastille green to the beautiful Royal Green, then also having to match it or make it blend in with the rest of the outfit. He who dares however shall be rewarded and a green addition to your look can do wonders, as long as it’s not anything pukey, too flashy or resembling of Hulk’s complexion.

I’ve gathered some images of different Green items that I found to my liking and with this post I open up a new series of posts which will contain collages of different items from a certain colour family.

 

FashioNation - Embracing Fashion As An Art Form

I have been asked countless times why most runway fashion shows contain so many outfits that are clearly unfit for actual 'street-wear'. As best as I can put it, fashion should not be viewed solely as a reservoire of ideas for personal style but moreover as a form of art in itself.

To that extent, modern day designers have gone from simply searching for pragmatic fashion approaches and have ventured into exploring the interactions between the human body and anything that comes into contact with it, and thus becomes a second skin. In such a world, the fine line between the male and female genders becomes less distinct and elements of both worlds blend to form a disgendered ideal:

One website that I simply love and which is almost entirely dedicated to promoting the artistical qualities of contemporary fashion is FASHIONATION.

(Photos from top to bottom: Comme des Garçons/Y. Yamamoto - model Kerry Degman; A. Symons/J. Richmond - model Ryan Thomas; VMan - Swimsuit Edition)

Burberry Totalus!

Harry Potter's heartthrob Emma Watson took some time off from the sets to be part of Burberry's new Ad campaign for the 09/10 Winter Collection.

While Burberry has used celebrities in their ad campaigns before, having Emma Watson as their poster child definitely brings a new perspective to urban chic. Her smoky eyes and semi-grungy hair style finally portray Emma Watson as what she probably would like people to see her as. A good-loking stylish teenager who wants to be normal.

An award does not necessarily make you a better (fill w/ noun)

…but is sure does get you the extra attention designers need nowadays, in times of financial recession.

Yesterday marked the day of the 2009 CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America), which to all American-based designers and a lot of fashion-aficionados is a day to look forward to. For Designers an award can represent the culmination of a lifetime of work or the beginning of nationwide exposure while for followers of mode it was something on the lines of a mini-Oscar ceremony.

Founded in 1962, CFDA is a not-for-profit trade association, whose 350 members are amongst America’s foremost fashion and accessory designers. The CFDA awards have several categories but the most important ones are of course Designer of the Year (Menswear, Womenswear and Accessories), the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award and the International award.

Womenswear Designer Of The Year

The Award in this category went to the Californian-based Rodarte, who has seen a meteoric rise to celebrity since the two Mulleavy sisters started their company in 2005, after graduating from U.C. Berkeley. Rodarte’s founders have been featured on the cover of Women Wear daily and have even met with the infamous Anna Wintour, Edito of American Vogue Magazine. Several Rodarte pieces have been seen on celebrities such as Cate Blanchett, Kirsten Dunst, Keira Knightley and Dita von Tesse.

Menswear Designers Of The Year

This year, the award was given to two designers since results of the voting declared it a tie. Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders (Left) and Italo Zucchelli (Right) of Calvin Klein Collection both received an award. Scott Sternberg had received the Emerging Talent award last year so this year’s achievement only enforces his talent and vision, showing that he has not disappointed his fans.

The Award for Accessory Designer Of The Year went to Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler. There were also three Swarovski awards which went to Alexander Wang for Womenswear, Tim Hamilton for Menwear and to Justin Giunta for Subversive Jewelry.

The Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award was presented to Anna Sui for her long and successful career in fashion. Having started working out of her apartment in the late 80s and early 90s, following with the launch of her store in 1991, Anna Sui is now a staple in womenswear as her clothing, shoes, fragrances, cosmetics, and accessories are recognized globally in the Americas, Europe, Asia and the Middle East. Sui now joins the ranks of Yves St Laurent, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, Diane von Furstenberg and Bill Blass, who are all past recipients of the Lifetime Achievement Award.

International Award

Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton was recognized again this year by being awarded the International Award,his fourth CFDA award having won one the erry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent in 1987 and thus becoming the youngest designer to ever receive this accolad, one in 1997 for Womenswear and one in 2002 for Menswear. This year Jacobs was ranked 15th on Out magazine's annual list of "50 Most Powerful Gay Men and Women in America" and this month he has announced his intention of marrying Brazilian advertising executive Lorenzo Martone, his boyfriend of one year, in Provincetown, Massachusetts later this year.

Popular Vote Award

This year also marked the first ever Popular Vote Award. Through a website hosted by wwd.com, the public was given the opportunity to vote for its favorite fashion designer. An overwhelming number of votes were cast and the winner of the Popular Vote Award was Ralph Lauren, who came alongside his beautiful wife Ricky. His award is definitely well-earned and goes to show the recognition and gratitude shown by the American public for one of the founding fathers of Modern American Style.

Besides the usual crowd of designers and Fashion magazine editors and photographers, this year’s CFDA Award ceremony had two special guests that are very dear to me. One was the First Lady, Michelle Obama who was awarded the Board of Directors’ Special Tribute Award. The other person was Gossip Girl’s own socialite Serena Van der Woodsen aka Blake Lively who wore a beautiful neon-pink/fuschia dress by Michael Kors, a former CFDA Awards recipient himself in the Womenswear and Menswear categories in 1999 and 2003 respectively.