CFW - FTW

The weekend is over and I have had almost no rest, but all the energy was indeed well spent. This last week witnessed the first edition of the Cluj Fashion Week (CFW - Cluj is my hometown), an event born out of the previous organizational failure of the Romanian Fashion Week

CFW meant art exhibits, workshops, lots of great parties and obviously a great fashion show. The runway saw creations of many talented Romanian Designers (Iris Serban and Raluca Coman) and also quite a few foreign designers (Kavathas Vangelos - Greece and Choi Boko - South Korea were my favourites).  My only major disappointment was that the Fashion show featured absolutely no designs for men, all designers focusing exclusively on Women's Fashion. While it is true that in Eastern Europe an even lower number of men are interested in fashion and the trappings of style, there is no excuse for omitting this niche completely.

I am not going to claim I know as much about Women's fashion than Men's, however there were quite a few designs that I enjoyed very much. Even "A Shaded View on Fashion" 's Diane Pernet was present at the show and her presence meant a lot for an event that is only just taking form.

My friend Jenya, visiting from the States on the left and myself on the right, on the last night of the CFW

CFW, great job and I'm looking forward to next year's edition, hopefully, bigger, better and definitely "manlier"!

Will You Add to My Baggage?

Will you add to my baggage?

Will you help me unpack?

Or will you just look at my things and take me right back?

Do you have the time to help me unpack?

To put away my baggage,

To never repack?

Evelyn Colbath (excerpt)

One of the great things that I have learned from my father is that smart people buy once while others live a lifetime buying. What my father wanted to have me understand is that quality should be one of the most important things I look out for throughout a life of purchases. One of the things that every respectable young man should own is a good piece of luggage. We are young, we travel a lot and we are more interested in adventure rather than comfort, which means our luggage should be there to withstand the most arduous of challenges.

Nik Palmer

Jack Palmer

When I first discovered Palmer & Sons, the first thought that went through my mind was, this looks like refined quality, I should look into purchasing one of their items. For good reason, Palmer & Sons, a Vancouver based, family-owned business is a great investment. All their items are hand-crafted by the Palmer men using traditional methods, heritage materials and vintage tools, turning into some of sturdiest and most fashionable pieces of luggage I have seen, They also allow for quite some freedom of customization, without the bill having to jump exponentially.

Examples of different finishing touches

1. For all of you who prefer a messenger bag to a backpack, me included, I recommend their Leather Suitcase No. 3 (Prices start from $435 - shipping included for the XXS model and go up to $545 for the M version)

- the XXS model can also be worn as a backpack or carried as a suitcase

2. For light to medium travelling I would recommend one of their Gladstone No. 10 pieces which also comes in different sizes (from XS - $450 to L - $700)

Notice the exquisite build and attention to detail. That's what will last you a lifetime!

3. Last but not least, there is an option for all you MacBook users out there, although I would not exclude other similarly sized computers from being carried in P&S's Leather Macbook Sleeve No. 14

Lightweight and quite manly thanks to the over-sized lock 

Whatever you might purchase in your lives, remember that quality lasts you longer than quantity and will always be much better appreciated by your peers!

Keep it in Style!

Give In Style

As it has become Rugby.com's custom to support different humanitarian causes, just like a good Prep should do,  Rugby is hosting a 6 day event in which all of you can help the victims of the Haiti and Chile earthquakes. 

On top of receiving a 25% discount (Enter the discount code GIVERL) on any Rugby item you can feel even better about your purchase knowing that 10% of what you pay goes to support the cause. Get out your credit cards and shop for a cause, I'm sure your Spring and Summer wardrobes could use some new additions! Rugby.com is also great about shipping: free if your purchase is over $150 or a flat $5 fee otherwise.

Here's a few of my favourite Rugby Items, which I would definitely wear and wholeheartedly recommend:

Top Left: GRAPHIC PRINTED CHINO SHORT - $79.50
Bottom Left: BLACK SKINNY JEAN - $89.99 and ENGLISH ROSE STRIPED BOW TIE - $49.50
Center: COTTON CABLED ARM STRIPED CREW - $89.50 and CANVAS MESSENGER BAG - $99.99
Top Right: SCOUT DECK JACKET - $198
Bottom Right: WADHAM GINGHAM OXFORD - $69.50
Note: Prices are before the special Give in Style discount!

Keep it in style!

It-Must-Be-Hard-On-You

As one site that I can't recall right now wrote, you should walk out the door every day with the same excitement that could get you...well you know, excited !

Shipley & Halmos jacket and pants, Original Penguin shirt and tie, Burberry belt, Nooka watch, Fred Flare cup

I can't comment much on this except how much I like this take on male fashion. While Women's fashion is always edgy and sometimes bordering the pg-18 zone, the same is not true for Men's as well. Why is it that breasts are always flaunted, meekly covered or behind wet white clothes and men are almost always kept fully clothed, god forbid someone might find out they have a penis?! This Vice-Magazine photoshoot does exactly that, and brings the MAN back into Men's Fashion.

Enjoy the Pictures!

Shipley & Halmos suit, Loden Dager shirt, Original Penguin tie, vintage pocket square from Screaming Mimi’s, Incase iPhone cover

agnès b. jacket, Sisley shirt, Topman pants and bow tie, Ben Sherman shoes

agnès b. jacket, Sisley shirt, Topman pants and bow tie, Ben Sherman shoes

The rest of the photos from the shoot can be viewed here.

Nautical Articulations Of The Being

What lies in names of furtive random faces,

That often hint at meaning just right before the future coalesces?

Is it the souls of waves that are now fleeing

From Nautical Articulations of the Being?

The sea has always been part of human nature and even nowadays it is still part of quite a few people's lives. Sailing and Yachting are often exclusively taken up by civilization's privileged, the few who can afford the time for his expensive hobby.

Perusing through my copy of The Official Preppy Handbook has brought something I had forgotten about, back into view, something that has to do with both sailing and a privileged lifestyle: Nautical Monograms.

Nautical Monograms have been and probably still are one of the few secret alphabets that are not that well known and could be easily overlooked by the uninitiated. The Nautical Alphabet consists of 26 distinct flags that each have a letter and a meaning associated with it. This particularity of "Vexillolinguistics" as it might be called, affords for easily creating one's monogram and then using it for anything ranging from signing a message, displaying membership into an elite sailing club to discovering other Preps that are passionate about sailing.

Here are the Alphabet and Numbers Chart in the Nautical System, useful for quick reference:

My Nautical Monogram for example would be the following:

One website that offers notecards with Nautical Monograms is Polygraphics.com

Enjoy being creative with your monograms in a new way!

Triangle of Fashion: Duke-UNC-NCSU

Rivalry is often the igniter of a social, cultural and most importantly educational perpetuum mobile, and few inter-university rivalries are as heated and spread as those between North Carolina's three best universities.

While still in its bud, rivalry in the realm of fashion is yet to unfold and each university has some assets that might help them gain the upper hand. UNC has its School of Journalism and a student body of more privileged origins, compared to NCSU, Duke has the most diverse body of students and plenty of material and intellectual resources.and NCSU has its feet anchored through their Schools of Fashion & Textiles Management and Design.

In terms of publications pertaining to fashion, NCSU is the only one so far that does not have (to the extent of my knowledge) a student-run Fashion Magazine. I've reviewed Duke's new publication DMAG (renamed DFaQ or Duke Fashion Quarterly as of recently) before and I would like to spend a few moments looking at UNC's own Fashion Magazine, Kaleidoscope.

From the two numbers that were available online I quickly gathered that this was a 99% for-girls-only magazine. Taking a peek at the staff roster that was available confirmed it (the only male involved with this creationary process was the photographer O_o)!

Fashion, at least in college, is a predominantly feminine issue/fancy and I could understand why the Kaleidoscope team chose to focus more on their female readers. This however, is completely antipodal to eliminating the male part all together. Even taking into consideration the fact that UNC's female population is slightly larger than its male counterpart does not explain this choice. I am by no means trying to disprove the magazine solely because it's written by Tar Heels and I am a Blue Devil, but I know quite a few UNC guys who would probably be interested in reading your magazine. The content in itself is quite nice and I commend you for your efforts, my only problem with it being as I stated, the unisexist approach.

Sadly even when a male was present at a photoshoot, the focus was clearly put on the girl. Honestly how can he show up in a fashion magazine wearing that!

Events to look out for if you're in the RDU/Triangle area are:

1. DFaQ's Launch Party at the Doris Duke Center on April 26th. Event details here

2. NCSU's "Art To Wear" Fashion Show, April 14th. Event details here.

Purple is the latest fashion

Purple is the color of passion,
Purple is the color of love,
Purple is the color I dream of.
Purple is the color of glad,
Purple is what you look like when you're mad.
Purple is the color of laughs,
Purple might be the subject of gaffes.
Purple is the color of me,
Purple is the best of the world you see. 

Luna Moon

Ever since the times of Ancient Greek when Tyrian Purple was only available to the Elites, the colour purple has been associated with nobility, royalty and sophistication.

In the time of Newton purple was not even on the colour wheel, however things have changed a little since then and a purple is now defined as any non-spectral colour between red and violet.

While there are many shades of purple that are used in art and fashion, only a few shades strike me as especially appealing to the eye: Amaranth Deep Purple, Mulberry, Heliotrope (slightly pinkish shade), Palatinate Purple (colour of Durham University), Tyrian Purple, Han Purple and my very favourite, Royal Purple (colour of the European Aristocracy during the Middle Ages)

Probably the reason why most guys avoid wearing purple is because matching it is not as easy or at least not as evident as with other colours. Consulting a colour wheel, which I always advise when in doubt, reveals that purple's complementary colour is yellow, its neighbors are bluish and reddish purples, its adjacent complementary colours are yellow-greens and orange-yellows while the triad that contains purple also contains orange and green.

In the case of purple, black is an even more suited colour (well technically non-colour)  than usual to match with. 

Amaury Nolasco of Prison Break in a very simple and classic yet stylish outfit, featuring purple matched with black. Source: splendicity.com

My personal favourits are gold and purple together (one should be subdued while the other dominant) and sometimes blue and purple. Remember always to try avoiding strident nuances if your intention is not to look like a circus clown.

As is my custom, I have put together a collage of some of the interesting purple pieces I have found around the internet. Please feel free to comment and add links to any other purple items you find to be to your liking.

Starting from the left we have a superb Ralph Lauren Cable-Knit Sweater, the ever so stylish Chuck Bass of GG, and a shiny purple Horn Dimora followed by a pair of nice purple mocassins from The Sartorialist. The Purple Watch from the top middle can be purchased here, while the Navy Purple Repp Cufflinks here. Following these two is a Hype Coach Purple jacket and a pair of Carolina Amato Driving Gloves.

Trim It Up...Chuck Bass Does

There has always been a certain allure to non-conformism. Untucking your shirt as a kid, staying up late or missing your curfew as a teenager and the possibilities are endless now that we are adults. Stylistically however, to step outside the boundaries of the "norm" and get away with it requires either an unshatterable ego (i.e. Chuck Bass) or icon status (i.e. Anna Wintour, Lady GaGa). Anything else is a clear fashion faux-pas and should not be recreated.

From these experiments of unorthodox fashion, the contrast trim blazer was born, and the great Design Houses were not far behind in adopting it. I personally love the added possibilities with regards to the colour and width of the trim, since I always bemoan how little we men can really do to vary our outfits in comparison to women. I have perused the market and came up with these great blazers for all of you to look at!

Beautiful Navy Linen Sportcoat from Ralph Lauren. Retails at $495

An Outfit that manages to pull itself up to par despite the intense matchy-matchiness going on. Interesting cotton Tennis Crest Jacket from Rugby Ralph Lauren. Retails at $298

Left: Cotton Jersey Club Blazer from Rugby ($119.99) on top and Seersucker Blazer from United Bamboo (Retailed at $565) on the bottom Center: T Wolf Trim Blazer by French Connection ($135): Right: Black Edjules Blazer from Peoples Market ($88) on top, Purple Velvet Sport Coat from Tallia Orange on the left and Velvet Tuxedo Blazer from Black Rivet on the right

Ed.: Just found this great Stone Piped Contrast Trim Trenchcoat ($140) from topman!

Of Hate and Envy

What recently came up on my Facebook News Feed, via my fellow Dukie friend David O., was the following T-shirt, sold by our good old friends at Urban Outfitters.

As a good Dukie, my first reaction was that of outrage, however it soon subsided and rather turned into a feeling of glowing pride. What I realized was that if a Urban Outfitters' (*cough* Tar Heel *cough*) feelings of hatred and envy towards our University were so far entrenched that they felt the need to slap it on a t-shirt and sell it all over the nation in their stores, we should be proud of such an envy-inducing institution. I am not of course saying that we should all buy these t-shirts and wear them around, but that we should not see Urban Outfitters' decision to sell these T-shirts in a negative way. The T-shirt says Puke when it actually wants to  say Duke is better and therefore I hate it.

To all my Tarheel friends I ask you kindly not to purchase this item., which can be found here.

GO BLUE DEVILS !!!

Engineered Garments Anyone?!

Clothing is a product of a creational process that is both thought and physical based. When most designers like to focus more on innovating the actual design, Engineered Garments strives to excel in the physicality of its creations. The name, according to the company's website, came from one of the pattern makers saying that the clothes were bordering an engineering endeavor more than what one  would normally expect of fashion design.

Engineered Garments, in spite of the lingering trend of the moment, uses a relaxed body shape , with sagging pant crotches and airy suits, all the while keeping it natty and nice.

I quite fancy the comfy-looking seersucker suit. and the drapey sweaters. I'm not very sure what to make of the shorts sartorially but I personally think it looks quite good, perfect for a summer picnic.

Madly Modish Madras

There was an Old Man of Madras,
Who rode on a cream-coloured ass;
But the length of its ears,
So promoted his fears,
That it killed that Old Man of Madras.

As the limerick hints at, wearing madras can easily become that cream-coloured ass that brings your outfit, and you with it, down to the ground. Madras is quite varied, madras is quite moody and madras is definitely not for the weak-hearted. Since each spring and summer season brings a resurgence in Madras clothing and accessories, I've decided to take a look at this unique fabric that is very dear to me.

Subdued colours, attention is drawn to the tie and jacket. Definite Madras Do!

As Wikipedia puts it, madras is a lightweight cotton fabric with typically patterned texture and plaid design, used primarily for summer clothing—pants, shorts, dresses and jackets. Madras is constructed in a 60/40 manner threadwise, which has been determined to be the perfect ratio for optimal lightness, strength and breath-ability.

The fabric takes its name from the former English name of the city of Chennai, India. This cloth also was identified by the colloquial name, "Madrasi checks." One style that was popular during the 1960s was called bleeding Madras because it used dyes that were not colorfast in a typically plaid design, resulting in bleeding and fading colors that yielded a new look to the fabric each time it was laundered.



Because of its almost garish nature, wearing Madras must be done in a very reserved fashion. While some exceptions are accepted for the most Preppy of people IN Preppy circumstances (e.g. preppy weddings, country clubs etc), this is not generally valid for most of us. Also, recently, there has been a surge of madras imitation materials that are borderline plaid and come in the most horrendous of colour combinations. I will try to show you what I personally consider Madras Dos and Don'ts.

MADRAS DOs

Classy Madras - never in the center of attention!

MADRAS DON'Ts

Clashing accesories, Madras on Madras, Matching Outfits (I can even attest to having bought the lower left corner outfit, which I have only worn together once, much to my chagrin) and even Madras raincoats from Band of Outsiders

Remember:
- moderate colours
- match one of the dominant colours of the madras with the rest of your outfit
- keep it simple
- never multi-layer with madras, too clashy

The Preppy Handbook dedicates an entire page to Madras (you can find the entire book here) so be sure to check it out. What I would like you good folks to take out of it is a little tip about caring for Madras: wash your Madras in salt water for the first few times to help set the dyes.

Keep it classy, as two lovely Duke girls like to say!

"Tea Partay"

While I generally am not a big fun of mockery for the sake of mockery, I find this video to be a very cute interpretation of Prep Stereotypes.As with the case of The Official Preppy Handbook, the intention was probably more whimsically satirical than something more akin to a tirade.

Notice the adequate use of pastel colours, seersucker and cotton blazers, boat shoes, bucks and brogues and of the infamous popped collar (more on this to come).

Update:

It has come to my attention there is also a West Coast version, written in response to the Original Tea Partay. Enjoy!

Rep The Prep

“People ask how can a Jewish kid from the Bronx do preppy clothes? Does it have to do with class and money? It has to do with dreams.”

Ralph Lauren

The Preppy dream still lingers on and more and more designer labels are incorporating preppy elements in their men's collections. While there is still a distinct old-Prep way of dressing, the Prep elements that, thanks to designers like Ralph Lauren (remember it's pronounced Law-ruhn), have now seeped into mainstream Americana Fashion are irrefutably natty and integrated.

One Men's label that has recently come to my attention is Caulfield Preparatory. C.Prep. started from its founder's wish to live his life at its fullest and stop being content with too little.

C.Prep.goes back to the roots of Prep and handpicks the elements that are now an intrinsic part of American Style: nautical themes, winter sports, a bit of effortless perfection, a dash of nattyness and a certain amount of "je m'en fiche".

I would like to draw attention to the great choice of colours, just a little toned down from traditional prep nuances, the presence of the superb trim collar, the horn-rimmed glasses and the poignant bow-tie

Preppy Comfort


C.Prep. is retailed at selected Macy's and Bloomingdales stores and online at RevolveClothing.com

Ed.Here is Caulfield Prep featured in Esquire Magazine if I'm not mistaken.

via the awesome Peggy Sirota 

Why Caring About Looks Matters

... now before anyone jumps at me with a serrated bread knife, please take some time to read the following Lemony Snicket quote:

via http://www.unabashedlyprep.com

I whole-heartedly agree with this quotation and I would definitely like to add that one of problems people have about primping up each day, is that they rather see it as a chore than a way to respect themselves their bodies.

Do it for yourself and if you have too much to give, do it for everyone else as well!

I'll Be the Boy Who Cries Wolf...

....although this time I won't be lying about anything and no wolf will be attacking my flock. This time, when I Cry Wolf, I will be referring to the NYC based store with the same name.

Cry Wolf, is a modern store that keeps the young urban-wearer in mind, bringing eclectic designers like Creative Recreation, Acne, Chronicles of Never and Y-3 together in their selections.

Here are my favourite items:

On the left side we have Cesario Blue ($68), Dicoco ($108) on top and Cesario Brown ($78) on the bottom, all three from Creative Recreation. 

In the center, my favourite, is another pair of sneakers from Creative Recreation, dubbed for good reason, Skittles ($89)

On the right side are two very interesting items, a short sleeved shirt with a hood from S2VS ($73) and a sweater that featuresa dettachable wrap hood from Wrath Arcane ($135)